North coast, looking towards Sao Vicente |
I was up early and
breakfast at the hotel in Ponta Delgada was peaceful and quiet. But, as I can't afford to miss the bus, I
didn't linger, as much as I would have liked to have done.
The stop is right
outside the hotel. As I get there I see
a little girl dressed from head to foot in pink with a matching rucksack and
purse. The latter adorned with sequins.
She's about 6 or 7 years-old, I think, and at first I wonder where her
parents are and why they are not here with her. It becomes quite clear that she knows the crack and I suppose
that on an island as small as this, out of the city she's very probably quite
safe. It also transpires that being
early for the local transport is the right thing to do.
The bus, an aging volvo
that looks as though its best years were more than 2 decades ago, arrives with a cloud of exhaust fumes. Miss gets on and greets the driver and
flashes some sort of card. Me next and
I buy my ticket. A whole €1.95 for the
trip. Seated and the bus sets off at
warp speed. Round the tight bends along
what tiny bit of straight there is available and up hill and down dale, gear
lever crunching through the box determinedly.
I have to hang onto the seat in front.
The journey might only be fifteen minutes but it's a quarter of an hour
of a stomach-churning fright-fest. I
was pleased when we arrived and I could set my feet on solid ground.
In Sao Vicente just
about everyone gets off at the stop in the town's central parking area. The sun is bright and the blast of heat that
hits you as you step off the bus is tempered by the cooler air blowing on-shore
from the Atlantic.
The town is tiny
(population around 3,000) and as I meander through the shady cobbled streets
there seems to be no-one here. The earliest habitation here dates from the middle of the 15th century. On the north coast of Madeira, the river valleys are deep
with steep escarpments on either side, making living, building and farming more difficult. The land is rugged and the earth a dark
grey.
I take a stroll along
the very short esplanade, which could be anywhere. At one side is the sea, the other a small line of a couple of restaurants, a bar or two, an ice cream parlour, and a churros & pizza place. The beach is nothing but pebbles of all sizes
in a myriad shades of grey. The sea
lashes at the protecting walls and rolls the pebbles back and forth on a
palette of charcoal, the rocks and stones gradually worn into tiny particles of
black sand. It's the sheer, and
enormous, rock wall on the inner side of the esplanade that reminds you that
this is Madeira and nowhere else. I think the tide is permanently in - no gradual drift back and forth across the long, soft, golden sand of a gently inclined beach.
Back into town and
the cemetery is across a narrow alleyway from the church. Inside the stations of the cross are
paintings, the walls and ceiling are decorated with murals and painted
patterns, the retable is as ornate as the one in Ponta Delgada and I'm in awe
of the sheer opulence of the place in such a tiny village.
Leaving the cool of the
church behind, I step out into the sun and wander through the town centre. I wish some of my usual haunts at home were
as peaceful and as quiet as this place.
As I meander back towards the bus stop, I see my bus screeching around
the corner and out onto the bridge across the estuary. When I check my watch I realise the bus is
15 minutes early, according to my timetable. I check the time of the next one -
it's a two hour wait. When I
compare the timetable, with the info I picked up at the
hotel, there seems to be very little correlation. Not that the driver seems to pay much attention to any of the
timetables either!
At the bus stop I'm
joined by two other travellers (one Dutch and one Polish) and a local. We debate the expected arrival of the next
bus and the local man gets out his phone and calls the bus company. There's a fast and
furious conversation in Portugese. I haven't a clue of what's being said. Finally, the man ends his call.
'No bus', he says. 'Only at four'.
I ask about the bus for
Ponte Delgada. 'At one', he says and holds up a finger to make sure I
understand. I thank him and decide to go for a beer. There's a bar with tables and chairs outside
just across from the stop. Ideal, I
think, just in case the bus turns up unexpectedly early!
Twenty minutes later and a
yellow taxi pulls up. 'Ponte Delgada',
the driver shouts. 'You want to come, it's 12 euros'. He already has one
passenger and I gulp down the remains of my beer. As my fare would be the second for the same journey, I say '10 euros' and hold up the relevant
note. He nods and I accept his offer of
a lift. The journey back is even more
of a stomach-churning fright-fest - this driver knows all the short-cuts along
the narrowest of streets. Don't you just love little adventures like
these…
If you enjoyed this post, you might also find my little adventure in Ponta Delgada interesting.
I always enjoy hearing about your adventures.
ReplyDeleteThanks for visiting, Allan.
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