Tuesday 24 March 2020

Off my beaten track...

... I can honestly say that I'm a little off my beaten track today, as I'm  in Sicily.  
Hmm, I know, I don't normally venture this far out of France.  But this week, I'm on a bit of an adventure.  I'm staying at the President Park Hotel in Aci Castello.  A fabulous place that is also a little off the beaten track!  It's a 15 minute walk from the hotel down to the village.  And note, I said down.  The hotel is on a hill, so the walk back takes 20 minutes or so depending on stops to take in the view, but the hotel has a little shuttle bus for anyone who prefers to be driven.
At the bottom of Via Litteri is Via Livorno, a major thoroughfare.  Cross and take Via Calamenzana, on the right, down to the tiny harbour.  But do take a look in the church on your right as you reach the tiny square in front of the harbour.  On either side of the door are plaques of names.  The great war on the left and the 1939/45 conflict on the right.  Inside the ceiling has some stunning murals and the place is in immaculate condition.  The altar was dressed in purple for lent on the day of my visit.
Today I'm taking the promenade to the nearby village of Aci Castello.  It's a gorgeous Mediterranean day, but the wind from the sea is harsh, chilly and strong.  The light is unbelievably clear and blue.  No wonder Van Gogh, Matisse, Monet and others chose the southern coast of France for their art.  We're heading to the Norman fort that sits atop a basalt stack immediately off the coast.  And, yep, I did say Norman.  I know, probably, like me, you may have had no idea that those pesky Norman's got this far south.  It appears that they did.  The fort was built in the 11th century on the foundations of an earlier Byzantine building from the 7th century.  The square tower, the simple arches, all tell-tale signs that this fort is quite definitely Norman.
For a couple of euros you can view the fort.  I dig out my currency and find my smallest note is a 20.  The elderly gent in the tiny ticket office has no change.  I tip out the contents of my purse and produce about 60 centimes - or is that centesimi? - in change.  Senor, returns my 20 euro note, scrapes the change out my hands and tips it into his cash till.  He tells me togo in.  As I turn to go in he produces a 1c piece from the change I've given him and returns it to me.  "For the wishing well," he says.  I nod and thank him, "molto grazie."  He grins, perhaps my rudimentary Italian is improving.  I shake my head and tell myself that he was just being very polite.
The terrace, probably an original battery, is covered in small, beautifully arranged beds of succulents, cacti and palms.  It's March and I have to wonder about the rainbow of colour that might be here in the coming months as the temperature climbs to its August zenith.  I start to wilt at that thought and am glad I'm here so early in the year.
In one of the rooms in the fort is a snall art exhibition.  A local artist, I think as I scan the
walls.  The colours in the pictures are bright.  The blue here has a shade all of its own and I marvel at the way the artist has captured the light.
Out in the sunshine again and I have my lunch - an apple - sitting looking out to sea and the basalt stacks.  I'm joined by a black and white cat who sits in the shade of the tree and watches me intently.   When I get up to leave, he strolls away.  As I meander back along the promenade I wonder what will be for dinner.  The restaurant at the hotel is excellent and I can't help but think about the scrumptious chocolate panna cotta from the previous evening...

You can read more about my little trip to Sicily Here 

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