Jottings from the journals...

...I've been trawling through my journals again and it would appear there are some surprises still to be found, especially in Lapalisse...

The département of Allier sits in the centre of France and covers the area from just below the RN7 in the north, to Digoin in the east, Gannat in the south and just a little past Montluçon in the west.  The river after which it is named rises in the Cévennes, north east of Mende and flows north, splicing the département in half until it joins the Loire just west of Nevers.  Allier, 03 if you see it on a French number plate, is one of the four départements that make up the region of the Auvergne.  A wonderfully rugged and scenic part of the country with towns and villages of timbered houses, dense forests and its fair share of chateaux.  I'm telling you all this so that you will understand that it is not the sort of place one would expect to see an elephant.  But I did.  In fact I was so amazed by the sight that I nearly fell off my bike!

As unusual as the sighting of the elephant was - I christened her Nellie - I have to confess that, despite my long and enduring relationship with France, it never ceases to amaze me.  Crossing the Puy de Dome one Sunday and needing somewhere to eat I happened on an old farmhouse with numerous cars outside - all with French plates.  Curious, I stopped and discovered a handwritten menu pinned to the doorpost and inside half a dozen long trestle tables full of people having lunch.  And they made room for me.  The food was fabulous, the wine came by the pitcher and about three hours later I left feeling replete.

Food, of course, is central to the French psyche, which is one of the reasons why market day is important.  Despite the supermarkets, tiny villages and towns of any respectable size still have their markets.  Not so very far away in St-Pourcain you can buy anything from eggs, meat, fish, cheese etc, to clothes and hardware and you can even be introduced to the livestock, as I was.  Meet Juilliette.

But a French street market isn't just about the products for sale.  It's a place to see and be seen.  A place to meet up with friends and stand and chat about politics or the weather, once all the friendly formalities, the family pleasantries and the cheek kissing thing are all done.  The noise levels are high, the pace is very slow, but the experience incredible if you only want to sit at a table in a pavement café to people-watch and to feast your eyes on the rainbow of colour, breathe in the aromas from the fresh vegetables, the fruit, the smokiness of the hams and sausage.  Nothing smells as appetising as a typical French market.

All of which, brings me back to my original point.  With so much that is French to be surprised and fascinated by, you would have thought that, by now, I would have discovered just about everything and that the frisson of excitement on happening on something new and unusual would have long gone.  But no.  After three days of constant rain, I was out cycling the lanes of Allier and found Nellie, at lunch, by the river!

There will be more about Lapalisse in a couple of months time, so watch this space!

If you enjoyed this post you might also enjoy a visit to Briare  Falaise or Montélimar