Tuesday, 19th
…Camped near Nevers and strayed into town for a brief look round. Need to decide how long to stay…
…Camped near Nevers and strayed into town for a brief look round. Need to decide how long to stay…
… the Palais Ducal dates from the 15th
century. It is a quite magnificent
example of Renaissance architecture, with its round towers and the pointed roof
that give it that very French look.
According to my guide book, it was once the home of the Dukes of
Nevers. Now it houses an annexe to the
law courts. It appears that the Chevalier
au Cygne (The Swan Knight), an early ancestor of the family, inspired the
tale of Lohengrin which Wagner used as the basis for his opera.
But Nevers has an even more interesting tale to tell, that
of Vert-Vert. Vert-Vert was a parrot
who lived with an order of nuns in the city.
He was very well looked after, so much so that the sisters of the
motherhouse asked for him to be sent to them so that they could enjoy his
company. After much debate within the
order, Vert-Vert was prepared for his journey along the Loire to Nantes. Regrettably, his travelling companions - two
Dragoons - were of 'the lowest sot' and Vert-Vert began mimicking their foul
speech. By the time he had reached
Nantes, Vert-Vert did not want for 'curses and oaths' as he 'could out-swear a devil
in a holy font.' One can imagine the
looks of shock on the nun's faces at his first utterances.
Vert-Vert was returned to his original home
in Nevers. In order the bring the
unruly bird under control, Vert-Vert was condemned to silence along with a
period of fasting and solitude. Having
re-acquired his good manners, he was then brought out of confinement to live
amongst the nuns, who spoiled him.
Eventually, 'Stuffed with sugar and mulled with wine' this rascal of a
bird 'Changed his rosy life for a coffin of pine.'
Porte du Croux, Nevers |
But that is not where this story ends! Jaen-Baptiste Gresset (1709-1777), a poet
and dramatist, published his poem 'Vert-Vert, histoire d'un perroquet de
Nevers' in 1734. The story and the
poem inspired paintings by Jean François Millet, Auguste Couder, Fleury François
Richard and their respective canvasses hang in galleries across France. Later, in 1869, Jacques Offenbach staged his
comic opera based on the poem in Paris.
I think that parrot has a lot to answer for!
When I got home after this trip I looked up the poem and there are a number of English translations. It is quite a tale!
I think that parrot has a lot to answer for!
When I got home after this trip I looked up the poem and there are a number of English translations. It is quite a tale!
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