… through Salles-Curan, a sleepy
village in the Averyon. Parking is at
the foot of the village and the road winds round the outside of what remains of
the old ramparts. As I walk up the hill
I'm struck by the idea that I've been here before, but the pâtisserie on the right on the opposite side
of the road doesn't seem familiar. I
cross and read the notice on the door which tells me it is opening soon. The picture of the 'pastissou' on the wall
beside the main window also seems familiar and I make a mental note to check
out the cake.
A little further round there are some steps on my left and I pass
through an ancient archway and into the old medieval part of the town. The houses lean against each other, the road
is necessarily narrow to keep out the sun and right at the heart of the town is
the church, More steps and I go in.
Dedicated to Saint Géraud, it is very small and gothic in style. The sun streams through the large
stained-glassed window behind the altar, illuminating the beautifully decorated
rood screen. But there's a surprise
waiting for me and after some hesitation, I decide to move forward. The choir stalls sit on the other side of
the screen and they are all immaculately carved with all sorts of creatures
from the sea. They are also a little
dusty! I spend some time working out
what all the creatures are and I'm certain some of them, a bit like our own
dear old Nessy, are just a fiction from the wood carver's mind. According to a short note in the church,
this was a collegiate church and therefore meant for the Bishop and his priests
rather than the local populace. It is
15th century - absolutely
all of it, including the stained-glass window and the woodwork.
Back out in the sunshine and I nod to the pair of lions that guard the
door. They seem very well behaved. The coat of arms above the door of the
church is that of François d'Estaing, the Bishop of Rodez.
On the street, I continue to wander and from an open window above comes
the smell of
garlic and smoked meat, reminding me that it is lunchtime. But as I follow the road I come
across a
stunning array of plants and flowers in front of a house - a burst of vibrant colour
amongst the ochre of the stone.
On the edge of the old town sits the ancient fortified chateau. Originally built by Guillaume de La Tour in
the 1440's it soon became a residence for the bishops of Rodez and, for a time,
the whole disocese was run from here.
At one time there was a winter garden and park which augmented the
chateau, and of the once three aligned towers, only one remains today.
Moving
on and into the more modern town that surrounds the old one, I come across the
war memorial and a monument to Eugène Viala (1859-1913), a poet and a painter
who was known as the bard of the Lévézou.
Apparently this little place was his home town…
Le Pastissou is made from walnuts and caramel, is dusted with icing sugar and has a pastry base. It is a speciality of the Averyon.
Le Pastissou is made from walnuts and caramel, is dusted with icing sugar and has a pastry base. It is a speciality of the Averyon.
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