LOCKS, GUARDS AND SAILING
... a meeting on board and I can't help but wonder what there is to meet about. However, the meeting is compulsory. The dangerous area of Assiut is our destination for today - but, there is a problem. The water in the lock at Assiut may not be sufficient for us to negotiate it, similarly for the second lock further upstream. The ship's manager has decided to make as much headway as possible and, contrary to our original itinerary, we are to dock at Assiut at about 7.00 pm and then navigate the lock immediately.
We're now about 250 miles south of Cairo and the dam we're heading towards is one of the oldest on the river. Essentially it is a large barrage that stretches the full width of the Nile and construction began in 1898. The dam was designed by William Willcocks (1852-1932) a civil engineer who also built the Aswan Dam, and was constructed by John Aird and Company. The project was completed in 1903. Kind of says something that the dam is still in service even now.
Most of my fellow Travellers and me are on deck to watch as we make our attempt to navigate the lock. As this is Assiut, we are guarded and a number of boat personnel are also on deck, including S—, the assistant manager. S— takes the opportunity to ask me why tourists will not come to Egypt any more.
"They are afraid", I say.
"But you are here" he retorts.
So, I explain that I'm no ordinary tourist and that I'm here because I had always wanted to see his country. I point out that I will probably never come back, not because I don't like Egypt nor because I'm not happy to be here, but simply because, when I return home I will have achieved what I set out to achieve. As we talked I realise that he thinks we Westerners are all very wealthy. I point out that for me, this holiday is extra special and that it is very costly even for us. Our chat drifts into the damage done to the tourist trade by Islamic fundamentalists. S— is vociferous in his response and points out that Assiut is an unusual place.
"Assiut is different from all Egypt", he says. "Here there are places the police cannot go - it is not like this anywhere I know in Egypt except here." He glances across at our armed guards.
I think about home about riots in Toxteth, Brixton, unrest in Northern Ireland, and the dark sides of some of our cities. In the end, we agree that perhaps there is no lasting solution.
As we move into the lock the guards take up their positions on either side, their rifles in their hands as though expecting an assault. I'm on the sun deck and suddenly I feel very vulnerable. My heart is my mouth...
On the other side of the lock, we have to double park next to the Ra II. We are not allowed to go ashore by ourselves but the local authorities had arranged some special entertainment for us and we are escorted as a group - armed guards in tow. Our special entertainment is a film about Egypt, the river and the building of the Dam. Once finished, we are escorted back to the boat...
Sleep eludes me. I'm not sure if it's anxiety about being here in this place or just the noise. There's a constant hum and thrum from the wharf and other passing boats. I may not understand the language but the vehemence and anger in tone can not be mistaken. It appears the crew and our armed guards are on constant watch for as long as we were docked...
There will be more from my Egyptian journal over the coming weeks. If you enjoyed this post you might also enjoy my earlier posts about Cairo Giza Solar Sailing Tell-el-Amarna and Egypt generally - just click the links.
No comments:
Post a Comment