Come stroll with me...

...through the city of Marseille.  I'm taking you out and above the city today to the basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde...

From the Vieux Port take Quai Rive Neuve and follow it round until you reach rue Fort Notre Dame and take  a left.  This street rises gently from the marina until it reaches a small square with 5 routes out.  Boulevard André Aune is what we're looking for.  But I'm also looking for a location that I can use as a model for some scenes in my 4^th Jacques Forêt mystery - Marseille.  As I've been meandering along I've been checking out the small side streets and little cuttings.  As I cross the square looking for bd. André Aune I spot a narrow ruelle that curves round.  I decide to investigate.  It's barely a car width in breadth, the angle of vision from the main road is short because of the curvature, and there's a very useful low arch with a tiny courtyard behind.  It's in permanent shadow because of the tall buildings on either side and it is quiet.  It's perfect and I get some shots - not that these will ever be used on this blog!  These shots are to help my memory as I'm writing.  When the scenes in rue des Licornes play out in the book, I will be seeing Jacques and Didier right here in this side street in my mind.

But, that is not our only goal for today.  Bd. André Aune rises much more steeply and eventually opens out onto a small planted and treed area with steps opposite.  At the top of the steps is Montée de l'Oratoire.  From here you can see the path and steps leading up to Notre Dame de la Garde.  At the top of the steps do remember to stop and turn around - the view across the city is amazing.

Just a fraction of the decoration.  Yes those are replica ships!

Standing on the site of an ancient fort and a much earlier and smaller chapel on a rocky limestone outcrop, this 19^th century basilica overlooks the city.  Hence the name, Our Lady of the Guard.  It is almost as though the building is keeping a watchful eye!  Construction of this particular building began in 1852 and took 21 years to complete.  Come inside with me and you'll understand why.

The stunning mosaics are made with materials from Italy and the recent restoration took 7 years to complete.  Apparently, this is the most visited place in Marseille, and, when you look at the décor, that snippet of info becomes understandable.

There's something else to see too.  As I walk around the building, I can see the scars of the battle for the city in 1944.  Yes, there really are bullet holes in the stonework.  There is also a plaque dedicated to Réné Valentin, the leader of a battallion of Tirailleurs (Infantrymen) from Algeria who were tasked with liberating the basilica.  Because of the position the church holds above the city any assualt would have to be clandestine.  It was a local man, Pierre Chaix-Bryan, who alerted the assualt forces to a hidden corridor and staircase that

ran from a house (No 26) on what was then called rue Cherchel (now rue Jules-Moulet) up

to the church.  The battle to take back the church from the occupying forces took place on August 25^th, the battle to liberate the city as a whole was finally complete on August 28^th.

As I leave the basilica, I'm going to take a slightly different route back.  If you continue on Montée de l'Oratoire you will come to Place Colonel Edon.  This is the spot where a tank crew supporting the assualt on Notre Dame lost their lives.  The tank, the Jeanne d'Arc, is still here and is now surrounded by a small memorial garden and monument.

STOP PRESS #MeettheAuthor :  I will be giving a talk and conducting a writing exercise at Parisot Library (Place de l'Eglise, 82160) on September 28th from 10.30 am.  It would be great to see you there if you would like to join me.

Marseille will is now available for pre-order Here  and you can read more about the city of Marseille Here  Here Here and Here