Come stroll with me...

...through the city of Marseille.  Last month I took you to a place I just had to see, the remains of the old theatre Alcazar-Lyrique on Cours Belsunce.  And I kind of left you there!

Doorway, rue Nationale

Today, that's where I'm starting from, in the very spot where I was stood previously.  From this viewpoint, if you look to your left, you will see the corner of a typically narrow side street, rue Nationale.  But it's the doorway and the building facing us that I want to draw to your attention.  It's one of many in this city with stunning masonry work.  And yes, I know the spectacular masonry is somewhat marred by the graffiti - which does seem to be everywhere - but wouldn't you want to be able to walk through such a doorway.  As I stand here I can't help but wonder what is on the other side - marble floors perhaps, beautifully moulded ceilings maybe?  An ornate sweeping staircase? Who knows?

We will continue, as there is something else I want you to see. I caught a glimpse of a vast triumphal arch as I was approaching the old theatre.  Although I had not originally intended to go onto rue d'Aix, I just had to check out that arch.  My mind is thinking Roman, and my assumption is at least 2000 years old. But I'm distracted, as I walk past the patisserie d'Aix,  by that sweet smell of jasmine and baklava.  I can't stop myself eyeing all those deliciously sticky pastries piled high in the windows.

Rue d'Aix climbs steadily along a narrow street flanked by three and four-storey buildings.  At the end, it opens out into a sunny space in the centre of which is the Porte d'Aix.  A vast triumphal arch sitting amidst the passing traffic.  As I gaze at it, I quickly realise my assumption has one nought too many.  There's not a single toga, tunic or helmet on any of the freezes that adorn the faces of the arch.  Not that that is a reason to ignore this particular monument.

Back at the place where I'm staying, I look up the arch.  In 1660 Louis XIV invaded the city of Marseille, using as his entry point the gateway that marked the route from Marseille to Aix-en-Provence.  The original Porte d'Aix was constructed of vast arches that supported the viaduct l'Huveaune which brought water from the river Huveaune into the city.  Having destroyed the 13th-century city walls and ransacked what remained inside them, Louis decided he wanted this essential acquisition and gateway to trade with the Levant to be made pretty.  He commissioned new shipyards, fortifications and the triumphal arch that now bears the name Porte d'Aix.  However, the achievement of this particular goal stalled. 

Porte d'Aix

It wasn't until 1784 that a decision was made to create the arch and to dedicate it to the peace following the American war of independence.  Regrettably, the monument continued to remain only a plan because the French revolution and Napoleon got in the way.  In 1823, building finally began, and the arch was dedicated to the French victory over the Spanish at the Battle of Trocadero.  Completed in 1839, it survived the fight for the city in 1944.  OK, it's not Roman, but I'm still glad I happened upon it.

As for the portico, that took a little more time, effort, and research back home in the UK.  The doorway in rue National once belonged to the Hotel Pesciolini.  Built in 1672/3, the building was initially commissioned as a private dwelling by the Pesciolini family, Hercules Pesciolini being a trader and banker from a family in Tuscany.  The destiny of the building is sketchy and precisely who lived there until it was rented out in 1693 I found challenging to track down.  But in 1708 it was sold for the first time and from then on the building passed through numerous transactions.  It appears that it is now back in private ownership.  Having exhausted my research, I wonder if should have been cheeky that day I was stood in Cours Belsunce and knocked on the door and asked for a viewing!  On second thoughts, probably not.

STOP PRESS #MeettheAuthor :  I will be at Parisot Library (Place de l'Eglise, 82160) on September 28th from 10.30 am.  It would be great to see you there if you can make it.

Marseille will is now available for pre-order Here  and you can read more about the city of Marseille Here  Here and Here