Rivers of France ...

… I’m finally picking up my journey along La Loire.  It seems such a long time since I’ve been able to continue this series of posts.  Hopefully you won’t be disappointed with today's destination …

From the city of Blois, in my last post, we meander along the D952 which runs along the north bank of the river.  We follow the valley to the city of Amboise.  The oldest part of the city is on the south bank of the Loire and that’s where I’m taking you today.

With a population of over 12,500 people, the city of Amboise has a significant and very long history.  It also has a beautiful château that originates from the 11^th century.  Chnaged, added to, and improved over time it was eventually confiscated by the monarchy and then extensively rebuilt to suit royal tastes.  Our own Mary Stewart, Queen of Scots, arrived in Ambiose at the age of six in 1548 and remained in the château until 1561, when she returned to Edinburgh to claim her title to the English crown.  But we’ll ignore the stunning building that towers over the river for the moment.  There's somewhere else I want to you to see.

From the bridge that crosses the river right by the château it’s a short walk – five hundred metres - deeper into the old town to Le Clos Lucé.  This was once the residence of Leonardo de Vinci.  The artist was lured to France by Francis 1.  Despite his age, da Vinci travelled to France in 1516.  He was by then sixty-four years old.  The King promised da Vinci the house and the artist lived out the final years of his life in the luxurious surroundings of the manor house until he died in 1519.

Built by Hugues d’Amboise in 1471, the small palace – in comparison with the royal château – is still sumptuous by an artist’s standards.  Leonardo was also in good company as previous inhabitants were as noteworthy as King Charles 8.

Now, the building in its own grounds, is a museum dedicated to the life and work of Leonardo.  You can meander through the artist’s studio, his living quarters, his workshop for his war machines, and the kitchens were his staff toiled to keep the household fed and watered and Leonardo in the style to which the King had set out for him.

As I moved from room to room, from staircase to landing, and window to window I couldn’t help but think about the feet that the passed the same way five hundred years before me.  As I gazed out of the windows at the gardens and grounds below, I couldn’t stop asking myself if da Vinci might have taken inspiration from this or that particular view.

The most fascinating part of a visit to this establishment, are the rooms containing the models of da Vinci’s many war machines.  There is an early form of tank right here!  Not to mention an equally early version of a machine gun along with a wooden bicycle and lots more to discover.

I spent a whole day meandering through Le Clos Lucé.  Which I suppose means I’ll have to come back to take another look at the royal house!  But, as I make my way back to the King's residence I have to call in.  Not to visit the house but to visit da Vinci’s grave which sits in the grounds of the royal château.  Da Vinci died on May 2^nd, 1519.  There is a painting by Ingres that was completed in 1818, depicting the artist on his death bed with Francis 1 at his side.  Did he really in the arms of the King of France?  I genuinely don’t know the true answer to that question.  But, it does kind of seem fitting that he might have done!

If you would like to read the earlier posts in this series, you can find them by clicking the following links :  Rivers of France  La Loire  Digoin  Nevers  Orleans  Blois