I'm continuing my travels and I’m picking up from where I left you last week on the blog – sitting, having lunch in the real town of Meyrueis as I considered whether I should rebuild some of the old town walls for my fictional version of the place.
Although my lunch is finished, my internal debate isn’t. I decide to leave it at that and make my way up onto the Causse that overlooks and dwarfs the town. I have some scenes that will fit the unique landscape of these vast limestone plateaux. From Meyrueis I take the D996 heading north-east out of town. On the outkirts, I take a left on the D986 which traverses the Causse Méjean and head towards Hures-la-Parade.
The Causses, and there are quite a number spread across the whole of France, are vast limestone plateaux that range in height from 550 metres (1800 feet) to 1250 metres (4,100 feet) above sea level. They were formed during the Second Geological Era, that’s about 250 million years ago. Yeah, I know. Seriously, big numbers are impossible to rationalise and understand, aren’t they? But way back in that time, this area was a vast sea. After about 70 million years, the sea began to retreat – I guess we had a form of global warming even then! – leaving behind various sediments and deposits. At some point in the Tertiary Era (that’s between 66 million and 2.6 million years ago) the Tectonic plates had a bit of a barney with each other, the limestone plateau left by the sea was lifted, the Alps appeared, the limestone fractured creating vast gorges and the basis of the landscape that can be seen today was formed. The rest is all down to 2.5 million years of weather and erosion. Limestone is quite friable and porous, and it suffers from our changing seasons – rain in spring, freezing winters, damaging winds throughout the year.
Despite the difficult birth of the Causses, the landscape has supported sheep and cattle farming since at least the Bronze age. It was during these times that the ancient process of what we now refer to as Transhumance was established. The roads up to and across the Causses have their basis in the old drovers’ roads that enabled early farmers to feed their animals on the grass of the cooler high plateaux and sell the animals at the appropriate maturity in local markets. The success of living on and around the plateaux led to the establishment of small villages in the lower gorges.
As I meander across this particular plateau, I see single-story farmhouses created from the local rock – mostly limestone. The habitation here is sparse. The trees are few and the clumps of low-level scrub are the only features. As I look across the causse, I see a vast and barely undulating field of pale green with patches of small low-level mountain flowers providing the last vestiges of summer’s colour. At the horizon I see sky and far distant mountains. For a child of the Yorkshire Dales and the rolling green and treed countryside of the bit of the county where I now live, the scenery of the Causse Méjean has a meagre palette of colour. The wind blows through the grass of the plain, creating constant movement and making the flowers dance. There’s a seemingly ever-present low murmur as the breeze slips by.
The specific kind of silence here, the lack of habitation and passers-by make this a perfect backdrop for a plotline that I’m considering.
There will be more from Meyrueis and the Causse in next week's post. Keep watching this space.