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| Photo courtesy of Rolph Kranz |
… I’m picking up from where I left you in my last post
about the rivers of France – Nevers. You
can read that post Here if you need to refesh your memory. Otherwise, read on ...
Nevers to La Charité-sur-Loire is a short hop, and the
temptation is to head out of the city towards the RN7 and take the fast route
to La Charité. Please don’t! If you leave Nevers on the minor road
that leads to Cours-les-Barres and Fourchambault, but turn left onto the D40
and cross the river, you will be rewarded with a fabulous view of Nevers and the river. Once on the left bank of the Loire,
take the D12 to Cours and then turn right onto the D45. This much quieter route takes you through
rolling countryside and follows the river, which is on your right. The D45 eventually intersects with the RN 151, and you can head straight into the heart of La Charité.
However, if you choose to dally you will discover a
path that runs along the bank of the Loire and, providing the vegegtation doesn’t
get in the way, you can get some lovely views of the river and the town.
Heading into town from the left bank takes you across
an island in the centre of the river. There are paths along each bank if you want to wander and have a more detailed look at the power of La Loire. Again, you can get some fabulous views of the
town and the river – see above. Not one
of my pics, but a far better shot than the ones I managed to get on a very dull
day!
The route from the island in the river brings you
right to the old part of the town. The narrow streets are now fully pedestrianised, but beware of helmeted locals on mopeds! The street from the bridge will
lead you to the church of Ste-Croix-Notre-Dame.
You will also pass the pâtisserie
a short way down on your left.
Naturally, I popped in for an amandine
for my lunch! I will find a lovely spot
by the river to eat it later.
The church kind of stands right in the middle of
the road, but there is pedestrian access and the interior is really worth a
look. The town was established in the 11th
century by a Cluniac Brotherhood who built a priory which was consecrated in
1107. The town is named after the brotherhood. Since then, La Charité has survived the Hundred
Years War and was finally liberated by French forces in 1435. Around 120 years later, in 1559, a substantial fire swept through the town, taking
with it houses and businesses within the ramparts and inflicting significant damage
on the church, which took over a hundred years to repair. The restoration was completed in the late 17th
century.
By the time of the Revolution in 1789, the town had
suffered further incursions during the Religious Wars, and few of the
brotherhood remained in residence. The
priory was subsequently sold but has been preserved. The church was not so lucky, as it was only
deemed a monument worth saving in the mid-nineteenth century. As an edifice
full of light, the nave is majestic with simple lines. I would have loved to have seen the original
windows, as the aspect of the church, the nave and the vast windows behind the
altar are perfectly aligned to make the most of the sunlight. The ‘modern’ replacement window designs are pleasing enough
and hint at what was once here all those centuries ago.
I leave the church for a meander along the streets, and I eventually find a sign for the campsite. It is by the river. I find a bench with a view of La Loire and
the town. It’s a perfect place for
lunch.
There will be more from my journey along La Loire on June 3rd.
