I'm Off My Beaten Track in Flam ...

… As the weather here in the UK turns especially wintry this week, I’ve been going through my journal from my Norway trip. Read on as I take a little train journey …

NORWAY NOTES

The boat is parked in the sound at Flam. I’m here to take one of the most scenic rail trips in the whole of northern Europe. I’m a little sceptical because I’ve spent so much time exploring the Cévennes. But I always like to make up my own mind. So, I’m setting off today with all pre-conceptions set to one side.

Before I left the boat, I checked the map. Here in Flam, we are about 2 meters above MSL – that’s the Mean Sea Level, and we are 60.77 degrees north of the equator. That’s a whole 0.7 degrees further north than Lerwick and just 5.3 degrees south of the Arctic Circle. When I left home in Yorkshire, the cherry tree had already flowered, the fuschia was beginning to come into bud, and the landscape was lush and green.

Here, the lush grass is pale, and the meadow flowers that I expect to see in April and May at home are struggling to make their presence felt. The temperature is about 8 degrees centigrade, and I’m wearing my big fleece. I shove my hands in my pockets and remind myself that although the calendar says it's mid-May, the weather believes it’s February!

The train comes into the station. It’s not a tourist train. This stretch of railway is part of the main line to Bergen. It just crosses the seriously big hills that seem to cover the whole of Scandinavia. As the engine begins its return journey we leave behind the trappings of Norwegian early spring and gradually move up into winter.

This leg of the journey to Myrdal is 20.2 kilometres in length. What makes this stretch so fascinating is that across that distance, the train will rise from sea level to 866 meters in height. If you prefer old measures, that’s 2,841 feet above sea level. As a comparison, Bowfell North Top in Cumbria is of an equivalent height. As the train snakes along and back on itself as we make the 1:15 climb, I wonder if there’s snow on top of Bowfell.

A Danish man and his wife are my fellow passengers. He explains the difficulties of engineering in managing such a climb. Some of the detail is far too technical for me, but there is one particular fact that gets through the fog and into my conscious mind. Underground in mines, the limit for gradients is 1:15. Anything in excess of that means whatever piece of steel you're driving down becomes a sledge! I ponder this for a moment and then take out my free leaflet and search for the piece of info I had read before getting off the boat. The maximum gradient on this bit of the Bergen-Oslo line is 1:18. I smile at Mr Denmark and thank him for the information. I turn to look out of the window, and those numbers keep going around in my head. ‘Just hope this thing has got good brakes’, I murmur to myself.

As we progress, the lakes look colder and greyer. The next one has ice floes at the edges. The one after is almost solid ice. The trees get more sparse, and the silver birch have not a single leaf in bud, they are reminiscent of early winter. As we approach Myrdal, snow clings to every surface, the solid white of the ground challenging the deep grey of the heavy cloud above. Just before we pull into the station, the sky releases its cargo of sleet and snow. From a mild, late spring in Yorkshire a few days ago, I’ve travelled back to mid-winter …

If you enjoyed this post, you might also like to read my two earlier posts about  Bergen  and  Eidfjord

Promoting Yorkshire Authors Christmas Book Fair...

... join me and fellow writer Gianetta Murray at the fair.  More details below.…

The Ridings Centre in Wakefield is hosting us and a whole load of other Yorkshire writers for a Christmas Fair again this year.  The fair will be open from 

I will have all six of my Jacques Forêt Mysteries with me.  If you would like to chat about France, the Cévennes, the stories, or even Jacques himself, please drop by and say hello.  I will also be able to give you the latest info on the next book in the series.

I will be bringing the three Miss Moonshine anthologies as well.  If you are in need of a feel-good, heart-warming read for the coming festive season, then these collections of gentle stories will be just the ticket.  They might even turn out to be present for that difficult-to-buy-for great-aunt in your family.

Gianetta Murray is the author of an anthology of humorous paranormal tales called A Supernatural Shindig, which was released at the beginning of this year.  Moved to Murder, the first in her cosy crime series featuring amateur sleuth Vivien Brandt, which was published earlier this year.  The second book in the series is already being drafted.  I’m sure Gianetta will be only too pleased to chat about how the work on her next book is shaping up.

Lastly, we will have all four of the multi-genre miscellanies of tales from the Seasonal Collective.  If you want to discover some new authors, these collections are just for you.  And who knows, something to read from a new-to-you author might just be what you are looking for.

Please join us on December 7th from 10.00 am at The Ridings Centre, Wakefield, WF1 1DS.  It'll be great to see you there... 

I'm very pleased to be able to announce...

… that I will be one of the signing authors at The Armouries Museum, Leeds, on Saturday, October 25^th, 2025.  Read on for more info and tickets …

This is a massive two-day book event that will run at the museum on October 24^th and 25^th, 2025.  There will be over 200 authors and vendors at the festival and I will be amongst them on Saturday October 25^th.

You will be able to buy signed copies of books and chat with me and the many other authors also in attendance.

All the authors will be located in either the Royal Armouries Hall or the New Dock Hall.  As soon as I know where I will be I will update this post and include the information on my website, too.  Please keep checking back between now and the event.

Each day’s event will open as specified on your tickets.  On Saturday October 25^th the Royal Armouries Hall will be open from 9.00 am until 4.00 pm and the New Dock Hall from 10.00 am until 5.00 pm.

You can get your tickets  Here

So, please keep that weekend free, and I look forward to seeing you at:

The Royal Armouries Museum,

Armouries Drive,

Leeds.

LS10 1LT

 

Rivers of France ...

... I'm continuing my journey along the river Loir today. Join me as I explore more little towns and villages ...

From Montoire, the D917 takes you through the verdant Loir valley to Trôo.  This is a small village with a population of around 300 inhabitants.  It’s worth a stop-off as you can see everything of interest in about an hour or so, and if you want to spend more time there, you can sleep in a troglodyte cave!  But that will be using modern furniture and fittings rather than the ground and animal hides!

The troglodytes were ancient cave-dwellers who are mentioned in manuscripts as early as the 5th century.  In Trôo, you can see and experience their ecosystem at the museum and by visiting some of the caves and underground dwellings.  The most intensive network of troglodytic homes is further south around Saumur.

Continuing on, the D917 will bring you to la Chartre-sur-le-Loir, a charming little town with a boulangerie and pâtisserie on one side of a tiny triangular town square.  I stop and purchase an apple tart for lunch.  From here, if you exit on the D305, the road will take you to Montval-sur-Loir, a much larger and more modern town and then onto La Lude where you can pick up the D305 which takes you to the heart of La Flèche, my destination for today.

La Flèche sits principally on the north bank of the river but extends across the massive weir to the south side also.  Here, the river is wide and fast-flowing.  It’s Wednesday, and it is market day.  It seems that the whole of the town’s 15,000 inhabitants are moving around the stalls.

La Flèche has always been an important town within the region and has a significant history stretching back to the earliest centuries.  There are significant connections to England, too, through the seigneur (lord) Jean de Beaugency, also known as Jean de la Flèche, who lived between 1030 and 1097.  He was granted land in Yorkshire, England, by William the Conqueror.  I can’t help but wonder if the very significant number of people with the surname Fletcher here in Yorkshire might be connected to Jean!

It appears that les Flèchois didn’t restrict their travels or land ownership to England only.  In the seventeenth century, local people, under the leadership of Jérôme le Royer de la Dauversière (1567-1659), moved to Canada and settled and helped to establish the city of Montréal in the province of Québec.

The history of this town doesn’t stop there.  In 1790, during the re-organisation of the old provinces into the basis of the current system of départements, the whole of the north-eastern part of the old province of Anjou, including La Flèche, La Lude and Château-du-Loir, were encompassed within the département of Sarthe.

Leaving the marketplace and walking away from the river into the centre of town, you will discover, at the end of an unimposing street, the fabulous masonry gateway to the Prytanée National Militaire.  A stunning piece of architecture that now houses one of the six military schools in France.  The buildings within the walls date from the 17th century and need a blog post of their own.

But my focus is the river and I have to move on as we are nearing the end of our journey along the Loir.

Join me on December 3rd as I cover the last leg of my journey from La Flèche to Durtal and the final reaches of the river.  If you want to catch up on the earlier posts, just click the following links: Le Loir  Châteaudun  Vendôme  Vendôme part 2 and  Montoire-sur-le-Loir

I'm reviewing The Witch Club by ...

 ... Felicity Green.  Read on to find out why I think it is a perfect Hallowe'en read ...

I accepted this book for an honest review with some trepidation.  I have never been interested in the ‘dark arts’ per se, and apart from finding the history of witchcraft in the UK mildly interesting, I have never really investigated the subject any further.  Folk lore and its history has been a subject I’ve jumped into at various times since I was a teenager.  Reading this book has caused me to challenge some of the misconceptions that I have come across over time.  It proved to be a far more interesting and engaging read than I originally anticipated.

Set in and around Arrochar and Tarbet – the narrow spit of land that separates Lock Lomond from Loch Long – I felt quite at home as I was reading.  Although I am not a Scot by birth, I am a fan of that area of the northwest coast, having visited Arrochar previously.  The author uses the fabulous geography and its rural constraints to further her story and as a stunning backdrop to the main action of the plot.  As the main plotline progressed, I could see and hear the waters of the loch lapping on the shore.

Dessie, a B&B owner, is the central character in this story, and she has a fascinating backstory that drives the principal plotline.  As a character, I found her difficult to like to start with, but when the various elements of her back story began to be slowly revealed, my understanding of her actions and motivations gradually transformed.

The supplementary characters were equally as engaging – including the villain of the piece, who is hiding in plain sight throughout the book until an eventual unveiling.  As for the witch club.  Yes, there is one, and it seems to consist of most of Dessie’s friends and neighbours.  Are they really witches?  You’ll just have to read the book to find out!

An interesting story that I unexpectedly enjoyed with a narrative voice the flowed well.  The story is told from different points of view, but the device is handled very well by this author.  Although the setting is Scotland, and the text is created for an American audience, so there are a few words and phrases that English readers may find a little disconcerting.

If you're looking for something that is a little bit scary but also has a bit of magic along with a mystery that keeps you guessing, then this might be your perfect read for the coming celebration of Hallowe'en.

Join me and fellow writer, Gianetta Murray …

… at the annual autumn craft fair in the beautiful church in Campsall on November 16th from 11.00am.  Read on for more details …

The church of Saint Mary Magdalene, High Street, Campsall, DN6 9AG, was founded by Ilbert de Laci of nearby Pontefract in the 12th century.  I haven’t been able to find a precise date for the completion of construction, and depending upon which text you consult, it could be either the early 1200s or towards the end of that century.  What all the texts seem to agree on is that the original cruciform shape of the Norman church has been added to and changed, leaving us with a variety of architectural styles that span the centuries.  Not least, the imposing western tower with its eight bells.  The bells and clock were restored and/or replaced in 1879.

Internally, there are some fabulous features to look at, too.  The rood screen dates from the 14^th century and is believed to have come from Wallingwells Abbey in Nottinghamshire.  In the chancel, there is a stunning plaque created by John Flaxman (1755 – 1826), a renowned sculptor, draughtsman, and leading figure in the British and European Neoclassical Movement.  The altar in the Lady’s Chapel was brought from a disused church in Ackworth and was designed by Augustus Pugin (1812 – 1852).  There are some ancient tombs both in the grounds of the church and within the interior.

In addition to all that history there is the local legend that Robin Hood got married to Maid Marian in the church.  Is there any evidence of that?  Well, it depends on where you look.  Within the Wakefield Ward there are records of several men called Robin Hood living in the area.  There was certainly a local criminal called John Little in 1318 who shows up in court records for being involved in a robbery with members of a then well-known gang.  It would appear that organised crime has a long and enduring history!  Were any of these men the real versions of the people we now know from legend?  It is possible they inspired the original stories, but I doubt they all went about wearing Lincoln Green!  However, if you check out some of the early writers, such as the Scottish poet Andrew of Wyntoun and his work Orygynale Chronicle, you will find a reference to Little John and Robin Hood, who were known to travel between Inglewood Forest – an area between Penrith and Carlisle – and Barnsdale which is very close to Camspall.

So, whatever you believe about legendary people, come along on November 16^th and enjoy the history and take a meander around the many stalls that will be within such fabulous historic surroundings.  I will have all six of my Jacques Forêt Mysteries with me.  If you would like to chat about France, the Cévennes, the stories, or even Jacques himself, please drop by and say hello.  I will also be able to give you the latest info on the next book in the series.

I will be bringing the three fabulous Miss Moonshine anthologies as well.  If you are in need of a feel-good, heart-warming read for autumn, then these collections of gentle stories will be just the ticket.  They are ideal for those few moments when all you need is a cuppa and a bit of me-time.

Gianetta Murray is the author of an anthology of humorous paranormal tales called A Supernatural Shindig, which was released at the beginning of this year.  Moved to Murder, the first in her cosy crime series featuring amateur sleuth Vivien Brandt, which was published earlier this year.  The second book in the series is already being drafted.  I’m sure Gianetta will be only too pleased to chat about how the work on her next book is shaping up.

Lastly, we will have all four of the multi-genre miscellanies of tales from the Seasonal Collective.  If you want to discover some new authors, these collections are just for you.  And who knows, something to read might be the answer to that nagging question about what to get aunty so-and-so for Christmas this year.

Autumn Craft Fair, Campsall Chuch, High Street, Campsall DN6 9AG from 11am on November 16th.  Looking forward to seeing you there...

Rivers of France...

… I’m heading out of Vendôme for this week's post about my travels along the route of the river Le Loir. Come with me as I take you to the sleepy little town of Montoire-sur-le-Loir...

The river Le Loir flows west out of Vendôme and meanders its way along the valley bottom, followed by two minor roads, the D5 on the north bank and the D917 on the south. It’s about 20 kilometres along the southern road from Vendôme through open, rolling countryside covered with fields.

I park between the station and the main shopping area of the town. With a population of just under 4,000, it has a thriving market. The central square is full of vans selling all kinds of goods. I can’t stop myself from having a wander, and as I stroll through the lines of vehicles I find a baker’s shop on one side of the square. A visit there and lunch is easily sorted.

As such, there doesn’t seem to be much to see here. But hidden away on rue St Gilles is one of the tiny frescoed churches of the Loir valley. Constructed in the 11th century, it became the priory of the poet Pierre de Ronsard from 1566 until his death in 1585. Ronsard was known in his own lifetime as the ‘prince of poets.’ He became the leader of the group of seven French poets referred to as the Pléiade. That name being a reference to the much earlier seven Alexandrian tragedians and poets who were named after the star cluster, Pleiades. So, this town may be small, but it has some mighty hidden connections. It is possible to visit the tiny church and see the 12th-century frescoes, but you have to make arrangements in advance.

Another thing about Montoire is that it hosted some meetings in October 1940. Perhaps not such a momentous occasion, you might think. But when you take into account that France was occupied at that time, the Vichy government was trying to find its place, and its authority following the occupation, and you realise that what happened here was of grave importance. But who met who here? On October 22nd, Hitler met with Pierre Laval. Hitler was on his way to meet General Franco, and Laval found himself summoned to the station in Montoire. Two days later, when Hitler was travelling back he met with Philippe Pétain, the appointed leader of the Vichy government, in the same location. These meetings are often cited as the beginning of the policy of collaboration that continued throughout the occupation.

Would anyone visiting realise the very important piece of history that was enacted here? Probably not; it’s such a sleepy little place. But there is a photograph of Pétain shaking Hitler’s hand, and a few days later, on October 30th, Pétain declared in a speech that things would change for France...

You can catch up with my earlier posts by clicking the links Le Loir Châteaudun Vendôme and my previous post is Here